
Rio, is a city of both evident contradictions and subtle mixtures. Made of concrete and jungle, formal and informal constructs, Rio’s urban fabric is burdened by an immobilizing modernist legacy. Nevertheless, its music and food escaped this movement by latching on to its history, its roots. Rio’s playful culture is present though its flavors, through its music, through its foods.




The contradictions present within its urban fabric are equally found in Rio’s markets, street food and restaurants overall. From its street vendors, selling pork infused popcorn, to the juice bars widely open to street, the food is all encompassing and broad: healthy and light, heavy and hearty.


Being a vegetarian in Rio was very difficult. The juices and acai where delicious, and readily accessible at both the beach and downtown, a true carioca treat. At restaurants, the meals always consist of meat-based dishes. I say dishes, because meat, and specially pork is used for flavor. The addition of pork fat, in otherwise healthy vegetarian side-dishes, made it almost impossible to find something to eat. Rice, for example, is glossy and well seasoned, which indicates the presence of meat fat in its preparation. So are the black beans, soups, stews, and farofa (a manioc flour side-dish used as seasoning for the rest of the meal components). Rio is a meat eater’s delight, and a vegetarian’s demise.


I found solace in fried yucca, a simple side dish, which was more or less healthy, and very filling. I have always liked yucca, so this was a good alternative. The salads were mediocre, tasteless and poorly treated. Watercress is the green of choice, as well as hearts of palms and grated raw beets.
The only thing that I truly enjoyed, and found to be delectable was Caldo Verde. I was testing my Portuñol (Portuguese-Spanish) speaking skills with a server that did not even speak Portuguese. One thing lead to another and I ended up ordering some sort of mysterious soup. I was waiting anxiously for what I would be getting, while everybody else devoured mountains of meat, rice, beans, and fires. Finally, I got this thick, starchy soup with ribbons of collard greens interlaced through it. I was starving after a full day without food, so I devoured it. Delicious!
I did some research. I think I have mastered the recipe, even though my version is much more rustic. This might be the only recipe I bring back from Brazil, but I think it is worth it. Maybe I’ll try a vegetarian farofa?
Caldo Verde is a traditional potato based Portuguese soup. It can be made vegetarian by eliminating the chorizo. If you eat meat, go ahead, add it. Just cook it separately, and add it at the last minute. For this version, I used cipollini white and purple onions, garlic, and shallots for an intense flavor combination. We have been getting these awesome potatoes from the farmer’s markets, which elevate this soup to another level. Of course you can use regular potatoes, but we all know good food comes from good ingredients, especially when the recie is as simple as this one. Cilantro, green onions, and thinly sliced kale add freshness and texture. Enjoy!

Caldo Verde. To call it just a green soup is an understatement.
- 4 cipollini onions (or 1 medium onion)
- 1 shallot
- 3 cloves of garlic
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1lb of potatoes (I used about 6-7 small potatoes)
- 3 cups vegetable broth
- 2-3 kale leafs
- 1 handful of roughly chopped cilantro
- 2-3 springs green shallots (or green onions, white and green parts)



In a medium saucepan, place potatoes, and enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil, reduce temperature to medium low heat and cook until soft. If you are using Idaho or Yukon potatoes, cut into smaller chunks for quicker cooking time. I left the skins on my potatoes because they were small, but can choose to peel your potatoes for smoother consistency.



While the potatoes boil away, heat a tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in a large pot. Add sliced onions, shallots and garlic. Cook until soft and translucent. Transfer cooked potatoes to pot and mash. Add vegetable broth. Either with a blender (immersion would be best) or a food processor puree soup until smooth. Return soup to pot and heat. Slice kale by removing stem, rolling tightly, then slicing into ¼ inch ribbons. Roughly chop cilantro and green shallots. Incorporate kale, cilantro and shallots into soup. Cook until kale becomes tender (3-4 minutes).
Serve hot, and accompany with bread, rice, or a salad. I like it by itself, as it is delicious enough.

